Sublimated acrylics can be beautiful art, especially when light shines through them, creating a glowing effect. However, so many things can go wrong when sublimating acrylic boards. They are made of plastic, and exposing them to extreme heat makes them malleable, warping or bending them. 

Every step of the process needs fine-tuning and accuracy for perfect results. But do not get frustrated, I will show you all the steps you need to follow when sublimating acrylic materials. I'll also share some of my best tips to achieve great results. Similarly, you can watch this tutorial.

Just like with any other type of art, you require specific supplies for this project.

The first step is to get the design that you’ll transfer to the acrylic blank ready. If you’re not sure what designs to use, look on Pinterest or Google for inspiration. There are thousands of similar projects with good designs posted by artists.

Once you spot something that catches your eye, use design software to bring it to life and tweak it to make it better. I prefer using Canva because of its simple interface. You don’t need to be a designer to navigate through it. Other similar tools are Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop.

It's always good to print the designs slightly larger than the blanks so that they bleed off the edges. Sublimation printers use RGB mode color mode instead of the traditional CMYK.

Do not mirror the design before printing because it will appear the other way around after transferring.

Most acrylic blanks are slightly dissimilar, some with a higher thermal threshold than others, making them the best type because they contribute to the prints being more vibrant and durable. Another factor contributing to vibrant colors is light-colored cast acrylic blanks. However, sublimating on clear acrylic blanks also has good results.

First, check that the blank has a sublimation coating because sublimation ink does not adhere to raw acrylic. If it is not sublimation-ready, the results will be smudgy and will wash off easily.

Most manufacturers wrap acrylic blanks with a protective film to prevent scratches and preserve the sublimation coating from contamination. Start by peeling that off, usually on the white-coated side, ensuring you leave behind no debris from the cover. If using a weeding tool to remove the debris, be extra careful not to scratch the surface. I prefer using a popsicle stick instead because it is softer and blunt.

Lastly, dampen a clean microfiber cloth with rubbing alcohol and wipe the acrylic to remove any dust or fingerprints that might alter the process.

The sublimation printing process is similar to any other done on different materials. There are no surprising elements to worry about.

With everything ready, get your heat press running. Adjust the temperature to 380 and the time to 45 seconds. The recommended temperature for sublimation on acrylic is 380-400 degrees Fahrenheit. All blanks use light to medium pressure depending on the thickness.

Use this sublimation chart for pressure, heat, and time to get the recommended heat press settings. In addition to the chart, refer to the acrylic manufacturer‘s settings. Remember, acrylic is more heat-sensitive compared to other materials and a slight variation to the extreme might make it brittle, cause burn marks and yellowing, or melt.

I always apply the design at the back side of the acrylic, so after the transfer, it will still appear exactly as you can see it. Place the blank on the design with the printed side facing the blank’s sublimation coating. The acrylic blank should be clear enough to see through when placing the design. Use high-temperature tape to secure the sublimation paper on the acrylic board. If it moves around during the transfer process, it might result in ghosting, which ruins the print’s quality.

Normal adhesive tape can leave ugly imprints after the heating process. If you don’t have high-temperature tape, use a light spray adhesive instead. Spray on the coated side of the acrylic before placing it on the design.

Place parchment paper on the acrylic to help distribute heat evenly when pressing, and to protect it and the heat press plates from any ink bleed.

Close the heat press plates and press. It only takes just a few seconds so be on standby to take everything out once the timer goes off.

Since acrylic gets so hot and malleable after pressing, use heat-resistant gloves when handling it. Peel the sublimation print off carefully, leaving no paper residue behind.

If the blank has started to warp or deform from the heat, you will need to correct that while it is still hot. Some small blanks also start curling at the edges when cooling down. To help maintain a flat surface, place a flat heavy object on top of the acrylic when cooling.

Allow it to cool naturally at room temperature. Avoid the temptation of a quicker cooling method, such as using a fan or refrigerating it, because rapid temperature changes may cause it to crack. Cooling for 10 minutes will play the trick.

Don’t worry if there are any white marks on the acrylic after cooling, they easily come off after a rinse with clean water.

After cooling, you can add more elements to the acrylic to enhance its appearance. For this project, I used adhesive vinyl to cut out different names and patterns, and then used transfer paper to transfer them to the acrylic boards. There’s no doubt that the adhesive vinyl made the boards more appealing and personal.

Now your sublimated acrylics are all done and you can show them off!

If you’re happy with the results after sublimating a plain acrylic board, you are now a pro and can experiment with different acrylic blanks.

Many people love using personalized acrylic keychains, so it is always a hit item in the market. If you are in business, this is a sweet spot for you.

Start by getting sublimation designs and acrylic keychain blanks (sublimation-ready). Then repeat the above sublimation and transfer process, and add decorations using adhesive vinyl. Remember to adjust the heat press settings depending on the keychain’s thickness.

After the keychain has cooled, add a key ring or ribbon, and it’s ready to go.

If you want to create a magical nightlight, you have three options: a traditional sublimation nightlight, a PYD life acrylic nightlight, and a glass block sublimation nightlight. The latter has a much longer pressing time than the first two.

The main difference with night lights is that illumination with the design plays a big role in determining the final result. You also need ample light emission and a mounting base.

This is a great way to decorate your home using your favourite gallery and memories. A good point to note, though, is that all the images should be printed using a sublimation printer with the mirror option checked, the color mode set to “Photographic” or “vivid”, and in an SPM file format. 

Since photo panels use thicker acrylic boards, the process works best with a swing-away machine, although a clamp shell heat press with a floating heat element is equally as good.

Most bookmarks have a thickness of about 3mm and are typically narrow and long. Consider designs that are vertical and unclustered for a better outcome. Because bookmarks used often are exposed to so much friction, I like adding a protective coating like a clear acrylic sealer. 

For those with sharp edges, I sand them down so that they’re easier to handle. However, these are optional finishing ideas that I have seen work best for bookmarks.

Sublimating on acrylic is art; with art, there is no one-shoe-fits-all policy. It's always great to experiment using different methods and materials. However, some common tips are guaranteed to give good outcomes to your sublimation projects.

Even though the images might appear to be okay on screen, that is not a guarantee that they have high resolution, especially for images downloaded from the internet. For high-quality sublimation transfers, use high-contrast images with good resolution, otherwise use design software to enhance them. Also, ensure all printer nozzles are well calibrated and the settings are properly done before printing.

This is a common problem when dealing with acrylics and has happened in almost all my related projects. Products like rubbing alcohol or dampening the area with water do the trick. Just rub a generous amount on the residue, enough to make it wet, not saturated, and let it sit for a bit before wiping it off. Do not apply too much pressure when wiping, or mixing up harsh chemicals as it might discolor or damage the acrylic.

You’ve worked so hard to let poor maintenance ruin your acrylic art. If it’s meant for display, avoid placing it under direct sunlight for prolonged periods because the colors will fade faster. Instead, use soft indirect light such as LED backlights. Avoid harsh chemicals and solvents when cleaning because they might wipe away your design and hard work. If there are any cracks or scratches, use a plastic polish or an acrylic scratch remover to buff it out.