How to Use DTF Transfer Film with Inkjet Printer

Gone are the days when you had poor-quality prints on paper and limited ways to transfer them to different substrates. DTF transfer film has saved the industry with its revolutionary printing technology. What seemed like a far-fetched dream is now a reality; you can now use an inkjet printer in place of a Direct Transfer Film printer to print on DTF film sheets.

Using an inkjet printer is a more versatile and cost-effective way to print high-quality designs for cotton, polyester, blends, leather, and other materials. I will give you a detailed step-by-step guide on how to use a DTF transfer film with an inkjet printer, how to troubleshoot some common problems, and some tips for amazing results.

The DTF transfer process starts with printing the design on a special DTF film before it is transferred to other substrates. The base of the film used is made of polyester material that absorbs the water-based DTF ink in such a way that the ink dries quickly but doesn’t penetrate too deeply.

The ink used in this process is deliberately thicker than standard printing ink to help it adhere to the film’s special coating and stay put without bleeding. This characteristic helps form a sharp and crisp print. The viscous ink also means it sticks on the surface long enough for you to have more control of the print’s fine details and gradient.

During the transfer process, when the DTF film, now coated with ink and adhesive powder, is placed under a heat source, the adhesive powder is activated and bonds with the ink. Later exposure to heat when pressing the design again activates the adhesive powder (now with ink), and bonds it to the substrate.

Now that you understand the printing process, let’s get into a similar project!

With all the materials you need for the process in hand, let’s start the printing process.

First, your printer needs to be ready for DTF printing. This means you should convert it to adapt well to the DTF inks. The cartridges should also be filled with DTF ink after flushing out any standard ink and residue.

Then, install RIP software and calibrate it before you start printing for a smooth flow. If necessary, do a test print first, especially if you just converted your printer. Lastly, ensure your printer is clean and dust-free; it will perform better and last longer.

Create your design using design software like Photoshop, Illustrator, or Canva, and set it to 300 DPI resolution. Just like with most printing processes, mirror the design by flipping it horizontally so that it is properly oriented after the transfer.

For all DTF prints, you should know that the valid design formats are EPS, PS, PDF, BMP, TIF, JPG, PNG, and PSD. Set the design to CMYK before loading it to the RIP software. Although you can do without this software, I recommend using it because it helps set the white ink layers and adjusts the ink density.

Load the DTF film into the printer with the matte side (the printable side) facing up and adjust the printer settings. Start with the paper settings, tuning it to glossy or photo paper for better ink deposition. Configure the RIP software settings too for color management.

The printer will print two layers concurrently. It starts with a colored layer followed by an opaque white layer which acts as the base.

After printing, the ink is still wet; do not touch the inside part of the design as it will smudge. Instead, evenly sprinkle the adhesive powder on wet ink, and shake it to evenly spread throughout the design. If there are any excesses, shake it off the film because it will only interfere with the process.

Place the powdered film under a heat source for a few seconds to activate the adhesive. If you are using a heat press, set it on hover mode to avoid direct contact with the film, and heat it for up to 2 minutes at 160°C. If you have a conventional oven, preheat it to 160°C and heat the film for 2 minutes. 

You can also use a heat gun to melt the powder, but be careful not to overcure it. It is always good practice to look up the manufacturer’s temperature and heating time recommendations for accurate results.

You will notice the powder will melt and start turning glossy. You know you did it right when the layer becomes smooth and glossy. If the powder starts turning yellow, forms a rough uneven layer, or becomes crusty, then your temperature was either too high, and you overcured it.

If you are used to other printing methods, the transfer process is pretty much similar from this step onwards.

Set up the heat press to the manufacturer-recommended settings (heat, pressure, and pressing time), which is usually 180°C and medium pressure for DTF transfers.

You don’t have to start by pre-heating the fabric, although it is good practice to get rid of the creases and moisture. Any creases will permanently show up on the print. Getting rid of any moisture on the substrate also helps with adherence. Place the DTF film on the fabric facing downwards.

If you are using a protective layer place it on top of the film and not between the film and fabric to help prevent burning and sticking on the heat press plates.

Evenly press for up to 15 seconds. The heat activates the adhesive making it melt, spread, and bond with the fabric, transferring the design.

Some transfers require a cold peel, while others a warm peel. You can only tell whichever you need to do if it is recommended by the manufacturer.

For a warm peel, carefully peel off the film while it is still warm to the touch. For a cold peel, wait until the film is completely cooled to peel. If you do a warm peel where a cold peel is recommended, the ink might smear, and since the adhesive is still tacky, some parts of the design lift with the film.

If you do a cold peel where a warm peel is recommended, the adhesive is already too firm at this point making it hard to peel, and it will potentially damage both the adhesive and the design.

Although DTF printing has its downsides, the upsides make it a preferred way to transfer designs to different substrates.

DTF printing has an excellent production of high-quality graphics and details. When done right, you achieve detailed transfers and accurate color reproduction with precise lines and sharp text. The white ink forming the base layer of the print enhances the brightness and vividness of the colors, making it easy to capture intricate details.

You can use DTF printing on a wide range of substrates such as polyester, nylon, leather, and cotton. Natural and synthetic materials do well with DTF inks, so when all other printing methods fail, this is your go-to. You can also print on light, colored, and dark fabric without worrying about compromising on the print quality and vibrancy.

DTF prints also have exceptional water resistance qualities thanks to the strong adhesive bonding and specially formulated inks. You do not have to worry about abrasion and the durability of your DTF designs.

You will be saving many bucks when you use DTF film with an inkjet printer for custom apparel and textile printing. If you are running a printing business, the inexpensive materials and inks allow you to compete with the big guys at competitive prices thanks to the low production costs.

Without the extra pretreatment expenses, extensive waste materials, and low energy and maintenance costs, you will be saving a good amount of money compared to when using other printing methods.

It is not always that the printing process goes flawlessly, even with professionals in the industry. Here are some tips to quickly fix some of the most common issues encountered.

This happens when you use excessive ink or adhesive, under-cure the adhesive, peel too soon, or apply too much heat and pressure when transferring the design. Stretchy and rough fabrics, or those with moisture can also cause ink bleeding.

The easiest fix is to control the ink density and to have an even adhesive layer on the film. Additionally, use a high-quality DTF film and use the correct peeling method. Use compatible fabrics and dry out any moisture before you start transferring.

Partial or incomplete transfers usually happen when you under-cure the adhesive, use incorrect heat settings, or misalign the substrate with the DTF film. Ghosting can also happen when too much adhesive is used, applying inconsistent pressure and heat, and when you follow the incorrect peeling time.

To fix it, properly cure the adhesive powder before you start the transfer. A well-cured layer looks smooth and sticky without any bumps. Since the film could easily shift and misalign during the transfer, use heat-resistant tape to secure it in place and use the correct heat press settings as recommended by the manufacturer.

When you under-cure the film, the adhesive is still soft and tacky as you transfer the design, leading to poor adhesion and incomplete transfers. Overcured DTF film has a hard and bristly adhesive that might sometimes start yellowing, lose flexibility, and start cracking or peeling over time.

Always double-check the recommended curing temperature and time by the manufacturer. To prevent uneven adhesion, use an oven or a heat press that evenly distributes the heat across the film.