10 Things You Must Know Before You Start Sublimation Heat Pressing

10 Things You Must Know Before You Start Sublimation Heat Pressing

Written by Tia Isom

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Reading time for 4 min

Introduction

Sublimation is one of those crafts that looks effortless online—then you try it once and suddenly you’re negotiating with ghosting, faded blacks, and that mysterious “why is it yellow?” haze. The good news is most failures come from a handful of predictable issues: mismatched blanks, moisture, shifting paper, uneven pressure, and inconsistent settings. Below are ten things you’ll want locked in before you fire up your heat press, whether you’re pressing shirts, tumblers with a tumbler heat press, or small hard goods with a phone case heat press.


1) Make sure your blank is actually sublimation-ready

A lot of “bad prints” aren’t printing problems—they’re blank problems.

What you’ll see

  • Colors look dull, gray, or washed out
  • The image doesn’t feel permanent
  • Certain areas won’t take ink evenly

What to know

  • Fabric: Sublimation bonds best to polyester. Higher poly content = stronger, brighter results.
  • Tumblers/mugs: You need a poly-coated sublimation blank. Stainless steel alone won’t hold sublimation ink properly.
  • Other hard goods: Metal, glass, and ceramic still need the right coating.

Quick tip

Stick with a consistent blank supplier (and even the same product line) once you find one that presses well—coatings vary more than people think.


2) Color on your screen is not color on your blank

Sublimation color issues are usually color-management issues, not “bad ink.”

Common mistakes

  • No ICC profile (or the wrong one for your ink + sublimation paper combo)
  • Double color management (both the software and printer “correcting” color)
  • Designing in RGB and exporting without thinking about output

Quick tips

  • Choose one color manager: either your design app or the printer driver—not both.
  • Keep your system consistent: printer + ink + sublimation paper + ICC profile as a matched set.
  • Make a small “color strip test” and press it anytime you change paper, blanks, or settings.

3) Pre-pressing isn’t optional: it’s moisture control

Moisture is the silent killer of sharp, vibrant sublimation.

What moisture causes

  • A hazy, foggy look (especially on fabric)
  • Patchy color or soft edges
  • Random light spots

Easy-to-miss errors

  • Skipping a quick pre-press on shirts
  • Wrapping a tumbler right after washing it (surface looks dry… but isn’t)

Quick tips

  • Shirts: Pre-press 3–10 seconds, then let steam dissipate before placing the transfer.
  • Hard goods: Wipe dry and let the blank come to room temp before taping on your print.

4) Paper shift creates ghosting—fast

If your transfer moves even a hair during heating, you’ll get a shadow/duplicate effect.

Why it happens

  • Not enough heat-resistant tape
  • Uneven wrap tension on curved items
  • Bumping the wrap when closing the press or loading a press sleeve

Quick tips

  • Tape the transfer securely (especially edges that want to lift).
  • For tumblers, keep even tension around the curve; avoid “tight on one side, loose on the other.”
  • Shrink wrap can help stabilize the transfer if you’re not using a dedicated tumbler heat press.

5) Pressure is not “the more the better”

Pressure problems show up differently depending on the item.

What you’ll see

  • Light edges (poor contact)
  • Blotchy areas (uneven pressure)
  • Press marks on fabric (too much pressure or the wrong pad setup)

Quick tips

  • Heat press for shirts: Usually medium pressure works best, with a flat, level platen.
  • Tumbler heat press: The goal is snug, even contact all the way around—not crushing force.
  • Phone case heat press: Use the correct insert/pad so the case sits flat; uneven contact is the #1 reason for faded corners.

6) Don’t blindly copy time and temp—calibrate your setup

Settings are a starting point, not a guarantee.

Common symptoms

  • Yellowing/scorching: too hot or too long
  • Faded image: too cool/too short or poor contact
  • Blurred details: overheating can cause dye to over-migrate

Quick tips

  • Adjust one variable at a time (temp or time).
  • Keep notes: blank type, paper, temp, time, pressure, and results.
  • Use a consistent warm-up routine so your heat press reaches stable temperature before “real” presses.

7) Protect your press from vapor—and protect your next project

Sublimation turns ink into gas. That gas will happily redeposit somewhere else.

Easy mistake

Skipping protective sheets and contaminating the platen, pad, or pillow.

What happens next

Your next press gets faint shadows, random tinting, or “mystery smears.”

Quick tips

  • Use clean protective paper above and below your transfer (copy paper or butcher paper).
  • Replace it every press. This is not the place to be thrifty.
  • If you ever see ink on your protective sheet, assume vapor is escaping and check your wrap/tape.

8) Surface prep matters more than you think (especially tumblers)

Finger oils, dust, and residue create tiny “no-ink zones.”

What you’ll see

  • Pinholes, white specks, “fish-eye” spots
  • Areas where color looks rejected

Quick tips

  • Wipe hard goods with lint-free cloth + isopropyl alcohol.
  • Wear gloves or handle by the edges.
  • Inspect under good light right before taping on the print.

9) Design for sublimation realities: tiny text and heavy black are tricky

Some designs are naturally higher-risk.

Designs that expose problems

  • Ultra-thin lines and tiny fonts
  • Large solid black areas
  • Super-saturated neon colors (often outside practical gamut)

Quick tips

  • Slightly thicken small text and linework.
  • Consider using a rich dark (or very dark charcoal) rather than demanding “perfect pure black.”
  • Output at 300 DPI at final size (don’t upscale after the fact).

10) Five small habits that noticeably improve results

These are the boring little steps that make your work look “pro.”

  1. Press a small test strip whenever you change blanks, settings, or sublimation paper.
  2. Lock your variables: same paper, same ink, same profile, same blank type.
  3. Control moisture: pre-press fabric; fully dry and degrease hard goods.
  4. Prevent movement: tape well, keep tension even, and handle gently during loading/unloading.
  5. Document your winning recipes: time/temp/pressure for each product (shirts, tumblers, phone cases).

The takeaway

Great sublimation results aren’t magic—they’re repeatability. Once you treat sublimation heat pressing like a controlled process (right blank, clean surface, stable contact, consistent color management, and well-tested settings), your success rate climbs fast. Whether you’re using a standard heat press for shirts, dialing in a tumbler heat press for wraps, or fine-tuning a phone case heat press for small hard goods, these ten checkpoints prevent the most common mistakes before they happen.

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